This past thursday ended up being a super fun South Souteast swell with hard West winds. Barrels was the name of the game. There were alot of rights that pitted real deep and had clean shoulders. However, that wind was brutal. Twenty five knot winds gusting to well over thirty knots made these waves spit in your face if you could not make the chest to shouler high drop.
There was a strong rip current due to the harsh West winds, so getting caught in a deep spot would suck you out- Mike and I got caught in one of these and debated whether or not to move to England. Since niether of us is a fan of tea time, no offense to tea I like tea, we paddled in closer.
Later in the day we headed down to the Inlet, which ended up being a shallow and really hollow peaking break. Mike stole the spot in the sun as he dropped into a well overhead right and was eaten by this monster.
The water is definatly getting warmer, so burn an old board and do a dance around the fire to get the wave gods to keep giving us this weather. Until next time, keep shreding, and READING MY BLOG!!!!